The Active Infusion Oil by Josh Rosebrook combines two of the most interesting active ingredient groups in modern skincare with the Californian brand's botanical expertise: Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR), a modern vitamin A active, and the oil-soluble vitamin C derivative Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDA) work together on visible signs of skin aging, uneven skin texture, and a dull complexion.
HPR supports the skin's natural renewal process and, with regular use, helps smooth fine lines and visibly refine the skin's texture. THDA complements the formula with antioxidant protection and supports a more even, fresher-looking complexion. Vitamin E stabilizes the antioxidant aspect of the formula and completes the trio of active ingredients.
- Product type: nutrient-rich facial oil with retinoid and vitamin C
- Skin types: suitable for all skin types; especially recommended for mature, dull, uneven-looking, or sun-damaged-looking skin
- Main benefits: supports skin renewal, smooths fine lines, and visibly refines skin texture and complexion
- Active ingredient duo: Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) + oil-soluble Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (vitamin C)
- Texture: lightweight, nourishing plant oil that spreads smoothly and absorbs well
- Botanical feature: homemade infusions of calendula, green tea, goji, chaga, ashwagandha, dandelion, and turmeric
- Fragrance-free: no added fragrance and no essential oils
- Quality: numerous certified organic plant oils and botanicals, vegan, cruelty-free, made in the USA
But the Active Infusion Oil is more than a retinoid in oil. Its base consists of jojoba, sunflower, rosehip, and hemp seed oils and is supplemented with homemade infusions of calendula, green tea, goji, chaga, ashwagandha, dandelion, and turmeric. Josh Rosebrook adapts extraction time, temperature, and processing to the individual plants and mushrooms in order to transfer their oil-soluble botanical compounds into the oil base. This combination of modern active skincare and sophisticated herbalism makes the formula highly characteristic of the brand.
Despite its nutrient-rich composition, the oil feels lightweight, absorbs well, and leaves the skin soft and cared for. It contains no essential oils and no added fragrance - its subtle natural scent comes exclusively from the plant oils and extracts used.
Key Active Ingredients
- Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (HPR) belongs to the newer generation of cosmetic retinoids. Unlike classic retinol, it is a retinoic acid ester that can bind to retinoid receptors in the skin without first undergoing the multi-step conversion process required by retinol. HPR supports skin renewal and, with continuous use, helps visibly improve fine lines, uneven skin texture, and an uneven complexion. At the same time, the active ingredient was developed with a focus on better tolerability than classic, more irritating retinoid forms.
- Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (THDA) is a particularly stable, oil-soluble form of vitamin C. This is especially interesting in an oil-based formula: the active ingredient combines very well with lipids and complements HPR with antioxidant properties. THDA helps protect the skin from oxidative stress and supports a clearer, more even, and more radiant-looking complexion.
- Vitamin E (Tocopherol) is not only an important antioxidant in its own right, but also complements vitamin C within the formula. At the same time, it protects the sensitive plant oils from oxidation and helps keep the overall formula stable. On the skin, vitamin E supports the lipid barrier and helps keep it soft and supple.
- Jojoba, rosehip, sunflower, and hemp seed oils form an unusually high-quality lipid base. Chemically, jojoba consists primarily of wax esters and therefore resembles components of the skin's natural sebum in structure. Sunflower and hemp seed oils provide a high proportion of linoleic acid, while rosehip oil is valued for its characteristic profile of polyunsaturated fatty acids and natural botanical compounds. Together, they nourish the skin, support its barrier, and make the potent active ingredient combination pleasant to wear.
- Sea buckthorn and marula oils complement the oil composition with additional fatty acids and antioxidant botanical compounds. Sea buckthorn gets its intense color from natural carotenoids and is also rich in tocopherols. Marula oil is characterized by an especially silky feel and a high proportion of oleic and linoleic acid.
- Calendula, green tea, goji, chaga, ashwagandha, dandelion, and turmeric are not simply added by Josh Rosebrook as decorative plant extracts. For the infusions, the botanicals are extracted in oil using carefully coordinated time and temperature processes so that selected oil-soluble botanical compounds enter the formula. Green tea, goji, chaga, and turmeric contribute a broad spectrum of antioxidant botanical compounds, while calendula complements the formula's soothing, nourishing qualities. These complex herbal and mushroom infusions are an essential part of Josh Rosebrook's distinctive formulation approach.
How to Use
- Preferably use in the evening after cleansing, toner, and moisturizer.
- For optimal distribution, leave the skin slightly damp or mist the Hydrating Accelerator on beforehand.
- One pump gently distribute over the face, neck, and, if well tolerated, around the eye area using pressing and circular motions.
- Apply a cream or balm afterward if needed.
- If you have not used retinoids before, begin during the first week with every third evening, then increase to every other evening and, if well tolerated, to daily use.
- Use a sufficiently high level of sun protection consistently during the day. Retinoids can increase the skin's sensitivity to light.
- For sensitive or redness-prone skin, introduce it gradually and reduce use as soon as dryness, stinging, or more pronounced irritation occurs.
- Avoid products containing retinoids during pregnancy and breastfeeding.
For more information on how to use facial oils correctly, see our Guide to Facial Oils.
FAQ
What is the difference between HPR and retinol?
Both belong to the vitamin A family. Classic retinol must first be converted in the skin to retinal and then to retinoic acid. Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate, on the other hand, is a retinoic acid ester with direct activity at retinoid receptors. HPR was developed with a particular focus on good stability and tolerability, making it suitable for formulations that aim to combine effective retinoid care with a more comfortable skin feel.
What makes the vitamin C in the Active Infusion Oil special?
Josh Rosebrook uses Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate instead of classic L-Ascorbic Acid. This form of vitamin C is oil-soluble and significantly more stable in an oil-based formula. It also combines very well with retinoids and vitamin E and supports antioxidant protection as well as a more even and radiant-looking complexion.
How highly are the retinoid and vitamin C dosed?
Josh Rosebrook does not publish the exact concentrations of HPR and vitamin C. Both are deliberately used as key active ingredients in the formula and appear clearly before the botanical infusions in the INCI.
When can initial results be expected?
A smoother skin feel and increased radiance may become noticeable relatively quickly. With retinoids, however, changes in fine lines, skin texture, and uneven complexion require patience. For a meaningful assessment, consistent use over several weeks to months is advisable.
Can sensitive skin use the Active Infusion Oil?
The oil was intentionally formulated without essential oils or added fragrance, and Josh Rosebrook also recommends it for sensitive skin. Nevertheless, HPR remains a retinoid. Sensitive or redness-prone skin should therefore begin slowly, with frequency adjusted individually according to tolerance.
Can I use the Active Infusion Oil together with acids?
In principle, both active ingredient groups can be part of the same skincare routine. Sensitive skin often benefits from initially using retinoids and stronger acid exfoliants on different evenings. Individual tolerance is always the deciding factor.
Can I also use the oil in the morning?
Yes, this is generally possible. However, we recommend using it primarily as an evening treatment. Consistent sun protection is especially important the following day.
Is the Active Infusion Oil a classic facial oil?
Only partly. Although the base consists of high-quality plant oils, HPR, THDA, and the complex herbal infusions make it function more like a combination of facial oil and active serum. You can find more pure, active-focused facial oils in our Natural Skincare Facial Oils.
Josh Rosebrook
Josh Rosebrook combines modern herbalism with sophisticated cosmetic active ingredient development. The independent, owner-operated brand develops its formulations with its own team and produces many of its elaborate herbal and mushroom infusions in-house. Different plants are extracted individually using carefully coordinated temperatures, infusion times, and processing steps. Instead of short-lived trends, the focus is on distinctive formulas, raw material quality, and uncompromising product performance.
INCI / Ingredients
*Jojoba Seed Oil, *Sunflower Seed Oil, *Rosehip Seed Oil, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (Vitamin C Ester), *Hemp Seed Oil, Dimethyl Isosorbide, Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate (Retinoid), *Tocopherol (Vitamin E), *Sea Buckthorn Fruit Oil, *Calendula, *Green Tea, *Goji Berries, *Chaga Mushroom, *Marula Seed Oil, *Ashwagandha, *Dandelion, *Turmeric, Phenethyl Alcohol, Ethylhexylglycerin.
* Certified Organic
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